Common questions. Straight answers.

It depends on product. LVP runs $5–$9 per sq ft installed. Engineered hardwood is $8–$14. Solid hardwood is $9–$16. Tile (porcelain or ceramic) is $11–$20 depending on size and pattern. Laminate is $4–$7. Demo, subfloor prep, and transitions are line-itemed separately so you can see the full picture.

Most jobs start within 1–2 weeks of the in-home consult. Hardwood needs 5–10 days of on-site acclimation before install — the install date sits at the end of that window. We do not pressure you to commit on the spot; quotes stay valid 30 days.

Brand-neutral. We carry samples from manufacturers across the price range — Coretec, Mohawk, Shaw, Karndean, Anderson Tuftex, Hallmark, Mannington, Tarkett, Forbo, Daltile, MSI, and others. We recommend based on your subfloor, traffic, and budget — not on which one we get the deepest discount on.

If your hardwood is solid 3/4-inch and not water-damaged or chemically stained beyond saving, refinishing usually wins. Refinishing costs roughly a third of replacement and gives you a brand-new surface in 3–5 days. We measure existing wear-layer thickness before recommending.

Mid-grade rigid-core LVP runs $5–$7 per sq ft installed. Premium thicker SPC with attached cork or rubber pad runs $7–$9. Slab grinding or self-leveling adds $1–$2 per sq ft if your slab is out of flatness spec.

Mid-grade solid white oak runs $9–$12 per sq ft installed including acclimation, demo, subfloor prep, install, and basic transitions. Wider planks (6 inches+), exotic species, and pre-finished European oak push pricing to $14–$20 per sq ft.

Standard 12x24 porcelain in a kitchen runs $11–$15 per sq ft installed. Large-format (24x48 and up) runs $15–$20. Patterns like herringbone or chevron add labor cost. Cement board, Schluter Ditra, or self-leveling are line-itemed separately when needed.

Most LVP installs are 1–3 days. Hardwood is 2–4 days plus 5–10 days of acclimation upstream. Tile runs 3–7 days depending on pattern and prep. We confirm the schedule before booking and call before we arrive.

Not for most of it. We need access at the start and the finish, and we coordinate furniture moves with you. For hardwood refinishing, plan to stay off the floor for 24–48 hours during cure — most clients move out for a couple of nights or use other parts of the house.

Most San Diego hardwood floors do well with a recoat (no full sand) every 7–10 years and a full refinish every 15–25 years depending on traffic and care. Pet households and beach houses with sand tracking in tend to need recoating more often.

Solid 3/4-inch hardwood: typically 5 to 8 times over its life. Engineered with a 3mm or thicker wear layer: usually once or twice. Engineered with a 1mm or 2mm wear layer should be replaced rather than refinished. We measure existing wear-layer thickness before quoting.

We default to Bona Traffic HD waterborne polyurethane — toughest abrasion rating in the category, low-VOC, fast-dry. Oil-based polyurethane and hardwax oil are options if you want a different look or feel. We bring sample boards finished in each so you can choose.

Solid hardwood directly over slab is not recommended in San Diego because of moisture transmission. The standard solution is plywood subfloor over the slab first, then hardwood nailed to the plywood. The cleaner option for most slab homes is engineered hardwood, which can be glued or floated directly.

Slab-on-grade homes, pet households, kids and high-traffic spaces, rentals, basements, and budget-conscious upgrades. Modern rigid-core LVP looks convincing, is genuinely waterproof at the plank, and costs roughly half what real hardwood does. For most San Diego homes, LVP is the right answer.

Bathrooms, kitchens, mudrooms, laundry rooms, and entryways — anywhere moisture is a real concern. Large-format porcelain (24x48 and up) is the dominant trend for new builds. Heated tile in primary bathrooms is a small-but-noticeable upgrade.

First, dry the floor and the subfloor — get fans on it within 48 hours if possible. Then call us. We assess whether boards can be saved (cupping sometimes flattens) or need replacement. We coordinate with restoration companies and insurance adjusters as needed.

Same-week starts in most cases. Water-damaged floors that are still wet need to dry first — sometimes that takes a week with fans and dehumidifiers. We come out and assess immediately so you have a path forward.

Often yes for sudden-and-accidental water damage (burst pipe, dishwasher leak, washing machine overflow). We provide a written scope and itemized estimate suitable for adjuster review. Wear-and-tear and mold from chronic leaks usually are not covered.